Hi 540 ratblog. I have a boat with an inboard 4.3 Mercruiser based on GM 4.3 Vortex. Mercruiser recommend their costly Quicksilver 25W40 oil and claim its a « marine oil » with special additives. Can I use good automotive oil in 10W40 grade without problem ? Also I saw on some boat blogs that boaters use Rotella T 15W40 diesel oil In their gas inboard engine but since you rate that oil at 71,214 PSI (lower than good) it is not the best choice. What oil you recommend for this application ? The boat run 50-60 hours per year and oil is change each year. Thank you ! Ben
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Hi Ben,
If you want to stay with a multi-viscosity 40wt as is called for, then I would suggest using 0W40 Mobil 1 “FS” European Car Formula (make sure you see “FS” on the label). It is “THE” best, highest performing, and highest ranked multi-viscosity 40wt from my Engineering testing on motor oil. It currently ranks a very impressive 7th out of 239 oils I’ve tested so far. It provides incredible wear protection at normal hot operating temperature, and also at much higher temperatures.
And a 0W40 viscosity motor oil is a far better choice than a 25W40 viscosity motor oil. Both are are rated as 40wt oils at normal hot operating temperature. But, the 0W40 is rated as a 0wt oil when cold, where the 25W40 is rated as a 25wt oil when cold. That means the 0W40 will flow MUCH better during cold start-up and during warm-up, which provides better lubrication and protection during that time.
Marine oils and Motorcycle oils are really just money making scams for their industries to increase profits. Automotive oils are the best oils on the market. You just have to select the right ones. And my Wear Protection Ranking List allows anyone to do that.
Checking the filters-the Bosch has a bypass valve set at 11-17# where the WIX and Hastings are at 22#.
Any concerns or advantages to the lower or upper setting?
Thanks
Layne
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================
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.
Hi again Layne,
A bypass valve’s most typical reason for opening is when an engine is driven too hard with cold thick oil. Now that you are running 10W30, and if you run the engine easy until it reaches normal operating temperature, the bypass valve should never open with either spec. So, it won’t really matter which spec you go with.
Im curious to know why some synthetic oils you have tested same brand oil there conventional ranks higher than there synthetic.
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================
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Hi there,
Many people just assume that ALL synthetic oils will perform better than ALL conventional oils in EVERY way. But, that is simply NOT the case. Here’s why.
The quality and capability of synthetic oils varies widely, the same way that the quality and capability of conventional oils varies widely.
It depends on how well each oil was formulated. And that depends on how capable the Chemical Engineers were who created the oil, and how much money their Oil Company was willing to invest in the development of a particular oil.
Any product you ever buy, is the same way. Everything varies in quality and capability.
For motor oil specifically, their BASE oil can be categorized as synthetic or as conventional. Typically, the primary benefits of synthetic oils, are that they perform better at higher temperatures, and flow better at cold temperatures, than their conventional counterparts.
BUT, the base oil has NOTHING to do with wear protection capability. And that is where people get the wrong idea about how good they think synthetic oils are.
What determines ANY oil’s “wear protection capability”, is its proprietary factory additive package, NOT whether or not it is synthetic. That additive package is what contains the extreme pressure anti-wear components. Like everything else known to man, the quality and capability of those factory additive packages, varies widely.
And those additive packages are what determines how well any given motor oil performs in my Engineering Torture Test, and thus how any given motor oil ranks on my Wear Protection Ranking List. That is why some conventional oils can outperform some synthetic oils.
I hope that clears up any confusion my Blog readers may have had about synthetic oil vs conventional oil.
Back with a question on old style cartridge filters vs. spin on.
I have a couple of 60’s cars with cartridge style (replaceable element in a canister) oil filters. Originally they were spring loaded Felt elements, now only paper is available. Some with metal surrounds And barrels, some only paper exterior with metal barrel.
I do see some modern cars still come with cartridge style, Porsche/ BMW, but those look rather improved over the 60s style that is available for the classics.
These Classic cars have spin on conversions available.
Are spin on Filters superior to the cartridge available for the classics?
Is there a preferred cartridge Brand for the classics?
Thank you
Layne
.
.
==============
.
.
Hi Layne,
I have not evaluated cartridge type oil filters, so I don’t have any data on them.
I was looking today at Pennzoil website under the conventional High mileage. There PDS shows it was updated 5/2020. It appears there conventional High mileage 5w30 is now a synthetic blend resource conserving. The 10w30 and 10w40 are still conventional. Hope that doesn’t indicate eventually they will all be a blend before long.
They are mad. Totally mad! Looking at european Toyota Yaris XP210 hybrid manual…They ask for 0w8, or 0w12, or 0w16 (there’s no typo). I rest my case here.
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.
===============
.
.
Hi again,
You are absolutely correct. Toyota has lost all credibility in auto manufacturing. They do such stupid things in this case, just to try to theoretically, microscopically, improve fuel economy. But, everyone who has compared such insanely thin oil to an ideal 5W30, knows that the owner cannot see any difference in fuel economy in the real world.
Some years back many people perished in Toyota vehicles when those vehicles had uncommanded wide open throttles. And Toyota lied about the problem.
They had countless engines destroyed from being sludge up. They have also had more recalls overall, for the more reasons, than most any brand they are compared to. The complaints about them go on and on.
They are probably the worst automotive brand on the market. I don’t understand why anyone would buy their products when there are so many other far better brands readily available.
Regarding the ’87 Jaguar XJ6 SIII oil filter requirements. I have been looking at various filters. They all have the bypass at the bottom of the filter.
Haven’t opened anything up yet but intend to unless obvious disqualifiers present themselves.
The Bosch and Motorcraft turned out to be very small so I sent them back.
The WIX, Hastings, Hengst are large with what appears to be decent construction, nitrile/rubber drain back and gasket. Standard Wix only is available for the app. Hastings tech told me that the Hastings and Baldwin are both made in that plant and the Hastings is a Baldwin with White paint. I see Baldwin does not rate to highly?
Should I stay away from Hastings/Baldwin?
The “OEM” Jaguar EBC9658 filter was recommended to me. A little larger than the WIX and Hastings, and heaviest of the filters, no specs other than size is available on it. Bypass at the bottom as others. The unusual thing I noticed is that only the bottom 1/3 (opposite the threads) end of the center barrel has holes in it to allow the filtered oil to flow from the media into the center barrel and to the engine.
Rough count is WIX with 112 holes throughout the barrel top to bottom and the Jag with 84 holes at the bottom 1/3 of the barrel only. So less holes at one end of the barrel that are about the same size as the WIX.
Also got a Hengst which is similar size and weight with the same partial coverage of holes but even fewer holes than the OEM in the bottom 1/4 of the barrel.
Is there some special design consideration taking place here?
Is this design acceptable, desirable, undesirreable?
Thanks
Layne
.
.
================
.
.
Hi again Layne,
Based on the information you provided here, the WIX is your best choice. So, I would go with that. There is no good reason to have holes in only part of the barrel.
You found out like I did in my Oil Filter Tech Article, that if you really look carefully at oil filters, you find a lot of craziness, poor design, and poor construction.
You did a good job with your investigation. It sounds like you can’t do much better overall than the WIX oil filter for your particular application.
Thanks Rat, appreciate the feedback. The Wix puts me back where I was to start with! At least now I have a reason for using it. Well worth the research for peace of mind in making the right choice.
Now switched over from 20w50 Pengrade 1 to 10w30 VR1 conventional in 3 of my classics with good result. Going to now try the old Sprite.
Hi 540 ratblog. I have a boat with an inboard 4.3 Mercruiser based on GM 4.3 Vortex. Mercruiser recommend their costly Quicksilver 25W40 oil and claim its a « marine oil » with special additives. Can I use good automotive oil in 10W40 grade without problem ? Also I saw on some boat blogs that boaters use Rotella T 15W40 diesel oil In their gas inboard engine but since you rate that oil at 71,214 PSI (lower than good) it is not the best choice. What oil you recommend for this application ? The boat run 50-60 hours per year and oil is change each year. Thank you ! Ben
.
.
=================
.
.
Hi Ben,
If you want to stay with a multi-viscosity 40wt as is called for, then I would suggest using 0W40 Mobil 1 “FS” European Car Formula (make sure you see “FS” on the label). It is “THE” best, highest performing, and highest ranked multi-viscosity 40wt from my Engineering testing on motor oil. It currently ranks a very impressive 7th out of 239 oils I’ve tested so far. It provides incredible wear protection at normal hot operating temperature, and also at much higher temperatures.
And a 0W40 viscosity motor oil is a far better choice than a 25W40 viscosity motor oil. Both are are rated as 40wt oils at normal hot operating temperature. But, the 0W40 is rated as a 0wt oil when cold, where the 25W40 is rated as a 25wt oil when cold. That means the 0W40 will flow MUCH better during cold start-up and during warm-up, which provides better lubrication and protection during that time.
Marine oils and Motorcycle oils are really just money making scams for their industries to increase profits. Automotive oils are the best oils on the market. You just have to select the right ones. And my Wear Protection Ranking List allows anyone to do that.
Take care,
540 RAT
Hi Rat,
Interesting difference in an important feature.
Checking the filters-the Bosch has a bypass valve set at 11-17# where the WIX and Hastings are at 22#.
Any concerns or advantages to the lower or upper setting?
Thanks
Layne
.
.
================
.
.
Hi again Layne,
A bypass valve’s most typical reason for opening is when an engine is driven too hard with cold thick oil. Now that you are running 10W30, and if you run the engine easy until it reaches normal operating temperature, the bypass valve should never open with either spec. So, it won’t really matter which spec you go with.
Take care,
540 RAT
Thanks again.
Im curious to know why some synthetic oils you have tested same brand oil there conventional ranks higher than there synthetic.
.
.
================
.
.
Hi there,
Many people just assume that ALL synthetic oils will perform better than ALL conventional oils in EVERY way. But, that is simply NOT the case. Here’s why.
The quality and capability of synthetic oils varies widely, the same way that the quality and capability of conventional oils varies widely.
It depends on how well each oil was formulated. And that depends on how capable the Chemical Engineers were who created the oil, and how much money their Oil Company was willing to invest in the development of a particular oil.
Any product you ever buy, is the same way. Everything varies in quality and capability.
For motor oil specifically, their BASE oil can be categorized as synthetic or as conventional. Typically, the primary benefits of synthetic oils, are that they perform better at higher temperatures, and flow better at cold temperatures, than their conventional counterparts.
BUT, the base oil has NOTHING to do with wear protection capability. And that is where people get the wrong idea about how good they think synthetic oils are.
What determines ANY oil’s “wear protection capability”, is its proprietary factory additive package, NOT whether or not it is synthetic. That additive package is what contains the extreme pressure anti-wear components. Like everything else known to man, the quality and capability of those factory additive packages, varies widely.
And those additive packages are what determines how well any given motor oil performs in my Engineering Torture Test, and thus how any given motor oil ranks on my Wear Protection Ranking List. That is why some conventional oils can outperform some synthetic oils.
I hope that clears up any confusion my Blog readers may have had about synthetic oil vs conventional oil.
Take care,
540 RAT
Hi Rat,
Back with a question on old style cartridge filters vs. spin on.
I have a couple of 60’s cars with cartridge style (replaceable element in a canister) oil filters. Originally they were spring loaded Felt elements, now only paper is available. Some with metal surrounds And barrels, some only paper exterior with metal barrel.
I do see some modern cars still come with cartridge style, Porsche/ BMW, but those look rather improved over the 60s style that is available for the classics.
These Classic cars have spin on conversions available.
Are spin on Filters superior to the cartridge available for the classics?
Is there a preferred cartridge Brand for the classics?
Thank you
Layne
.
.
==============
.
.
Hi Layne,
I have not evaluated cartridge type oil filters, so I don’t have any data on them.
Take care,
540 RAT
I was looking today at Pennzoil website under the conventional High mileage. There PDS shows it was updated 5/2020. It appears there conventional High mileage 5w30 is now a synthetic blend resource conserving. The 10w30 and 10w40 are still conventional. Hope that doesn’t indicate eventually they will all be a blend before long.
They are mad. Totally mad! Looking at european Toyota Yaris XP210 hybrid manual…They ask for 0w8, or 0w12, or 0w16 (there’s no typo). I rest my case here.
.
.
===============
.
.
Hi again,
You are absolutely correct. Toyota has lost all credibility in auto manufacturing. They do such stupid things in this case, just to try to theoretically, microscopically, improve fuel economy. But, everyone who has compared such insanely thin oil to an ideal 5W30, knows that the owner cannot see any difference in fuel economy in the real world.
Some years back many people perished in Toyota vehicles when those vehicles had uncommanded wide open throttles. And Toyota lied about the problem.
They had countless engines destroyed from being sludge up. They have also had more recalls overall, for the more reasons, than most any brand they are compared to. The complaints about them go on and on.
They are probably the worst automotive brand on the market. I don’t understand why anyone would buy their products when there are so many other far better brands readily available.
Take care,
540 RAT
Hi Rat, More investigation, more questions.
Regarding the ’87 Jaguar XJ6 SIII oil filter requirements. I have been looking at various filters. They all have the bypass at the bottom of the filter.
Haven’t opened anything up yet but intend to unless obvious disqualifiers present themselves.
The Bosch and Motorcraft turned out to be very small so I sent them back.
The WIX, Hastings, Hengst are large with what appears to be decent construction, nitrile/rubber drain back and gasket. Standard Wix only is available for the app. Hastings tech told me that the Hastings and Baldwin are both made in that plant and the Hastings is a Baldwin with White paint. I see Baldwin does not rate to highly?
Should I stay away from Hastings/Baldwin?
The “OEM” Jaguar EBC9658 filter was recommended to me. A little larger than the WIX and Hastings, and heaviest of the filters, no specs other than size is available on it. Bypass at the bottom as others. The unusual thing I noticed is that only the bottom 1/3 (opposite the threads) end of the center barrel has holes in it to allow the filtered oil to flow from the media into the center barrel and to the engine.
Rough count is WIX with 112 holes throughout the barrel top to bottom and the Jag with 84 holes at the bottom 1/3 of the barrel only. So less holes at one end of the barrel that are about the same size as the WIX.
Also got a Hengst which is similar size and weight with the same partial coverage of holes but even fewer holes than the OEM in the bottom 1/4 of the barrel.
Is there some special design consideration taking place here?
Is this design acceptable, desirable, undesirreable?
Thanks
Layne
.
.
================
.
.
Hi again Layne,
Based on the information you provided here, the WIX is your best choice. So, I would go with that. There is no good reason to have holes in only part of the barrel.
You found out like I did in my Oil Filter Tech Article, that if you really look carefully at oil filters, you find a lot of craziness, poor design, and poor construction.
You did a good job with your investigation. It sounds like you can’t do much better overall than the WIX oil filter for your particular application.
Take care,
540 RAT
Thanks Rat, appreciate the feedback. The Wix puts me back where I was to start with! At least now I have a reason for using it. Well worth the research for peace of mind in making the right choice.
Now switched over from 20w50 Pengrade 1 to 10w30 VR1 conventional in 3 of my classics with good result. Going to now try the old Sprite.
Thanks again for the advice.
Layne