Hello 540 Rat. First, I really like your blog, and the oil testing that you do…great work. Second, have you considered testing any of the new CK4 rated diesel oils from the Big 3? Supposedly, the new CK4 diesel oils offer better protection over CJ4 oils. Additionally, CK4/SN rated universal (mixed fleet) oils have reduced zinc and phosphorus levels to 800 PPM. For that reason, Ford has not approved their use in the 6.7L Powerstroke diesel. I am very curious if the reduction of zinc phosphorus really impact diesel engine wear protection. Mobil and Chevron claim wear protection in the new CK4/SN formulations are better. However, Shell and Valvoline dropped the SN rating from their CK4 oils, and they retain zinc and phosphorus levels greater than 1000 PPM.
.
.
===================================
.
.
Hi Riley,
I don’t have any particular plans to test those oils. But, if you are interested enough in their capability to send me some, I could test them for you when I can fit them into my schedule.
Any recommendations on oil filters? Very impressed with your findings. Have 2 flat tappet vehicles(VR1 oil) but am switching to synthetic Valvoline full synthetic w maxlife. I want to ensure my engines don’t fail prematurely. Also use Valvoline maxlife (red) in my dailydriver with 135k.
Meant to say switching to Valvoline full synthetic w maxlife- silver bottle;123k psi
Thank you for posting the findings
Danny
.
.
==========================
.
.
Hi Danny,
I have not performed a comprehensive study on oil filters, so I do not have any particular recommendations.
My dad Dave is sending the mazda oil and the Amsoil signiture in 0w-20. I’m curious in the difference between Amsoil’s OE and signiture series 5w-20 in their new formulas. Can I send you one of each for testing?
Thanks,
Josh
.
.
===============================
.
.
Hi Josh,
I need to spread out oil test shipments. So, if you can wait and ship yours out the last week of October, that would be OK.
Refer to the same shipping instructions your Dad is using.
540 Rat I can’t find it on your blog but Have you ever tested Mobile 1 10w40 Full Synthetic High Mileage? I may have to go up to a 40 weight to stop oil consumption and as I am trying Pennzoil Conventional High Mileage 5w30 on my Camry I would like to stay with a synthetic for 2001 Silverado 2500 8.1. – Thanks. PS the Camry burnt off 1 Qt of Valvoline Full Synthetic Max Life 5w30 (Silver Bottle) after only 1,400 miles. Trying the Pennzoil Conventional per your suggestion will let you know – thanks again .. Johnny
.
.
============================
.
.
Hi Johnny,
I have not tested that particular oil. I do not keep tested oils off my Wear Protection Ranking List. If I test an oil, I put it on there.
Thanks for the info on your oil consumption. Keep me posted on how things go.
Hello. It’s BARBARRIER. I ran the conventional oil in my suburban for 11 years with no cam problems. I did another test, 5w30 vs 5w20, with a different motor. I built a 4.0 jeep motor, 2000 Cherokee, last year. It’s .020 over with hypereutectic pistons, and the head was milled 12 thou. Other than that it’s completely stock parts. The mains are .0022 and the rods a little smaller. Don’t remember the exact size. I’ve been running Quaker state ultimate durability 5w30 and k&n 3001 filter since I built it. It ldles at 600 rpm, hot, in gear. The temp runs right on the 210 mark, a tiny higher on very hot days. The 5w20 Quaker state ultimate durability idles at 700 rpm, hot in gear. And it never got exactly on the 210 mark like the other oil. Even on hot days. The motor”seems” to spin or rev easier and smoother on 5w20. Now. To me it does seem a little more noisy than the 5w30 but that’s just me. Used a mechanical after market oil guage for the 5w20 and hot, in park, idling the oil pressure was 17 psi. It would jump to 50 psi real quick when hitting the throttle, and not even that hard. Haven’t checked oil pressure using external mechanical guage with 5w30. So, I’m thinking about using 5w20 on next oil change, and sticking with it, but the noise bothers me lol. This is what happened with my particular application. Love the info in your blog.
.
.
=====================================
.
.
Hi BARBARRIER,
It is not unusual for some engines to make a little more mechanical noise with 5W20, compared to 5W30, especially if they were not originally designed for oil as thin as 5W20. I usually suggest that people don’t go to oil as thin as 5W20, if their engine was not originally designed for it.
Your 17 psi hot idle oil pressure does meet the old rule of thumb of “at least 10 psi for every 1,000 rpm”, for High Performance and Racing engines. But, 17 psi is rather low, and if the engine happened to get hotter and the oil thinner, that would be concern. I suggest that in your particular case, it would be better overall, to use the 5W30.
How do I go straight to the test data list
.
.
===========================
.
.
You can just scroll right down to it. This is only a very simple basic Blog.
Thank you for the response. I have taken your advice and have purchased the Mobil 1 European Formula 0W40 for my cam breakin. It’s the bottle with the “FS” on the label. Last question is in regards to the cam breakin time and oil life. Do you recommend draining the oil and replacing the filter after the suggested 30 minutes? I actually have some NOS Delphi lifters that have an instruction sheet with them. They suggest 20-25 minutes at 2000-2500 (varied) with no idling whatsoever. But nothing about replacing the oil and filter immediately after. I will be honest with you and you may think I’m nuts, but I have never once broke a cam in. Roller, flat or mechanical flat tappet. I always used a liberal amount of cam lube, prelube the motor with a drill, and fire it up. Granted the last cam I swapped was a hydraulic flat in 2006. I can’t remember what oil I used, but I almost always used Mobil 1 10W40 full synthetic except for one fill I performed using Lucas racing synthetic 5W50 I believe. I may had just gotten lucky, who knows, but I am curious if this may just be a myth like the zinc content. Thanks again for your help and response. I break this cam in next week.
Matt
.
.
=================================
.
.
Hi again Matt,
The recommendation to drain the oil and replace the oil filter after 30 minutes, is a suggestion sometimes given that pertains to a full engine rebuild, not for just a cam swap. You could do that for just a cam swap if you want, because it won’t hurt anything. But, it is not absolutely necessary. I don’t bother doing that for just a cam swap. And when I have cut oil filters open later on, after a cam swap, I’ve never seen any sign of metal particles, as long as I’ve used a high psi capable oil.
The flat tappet cam break-in suggestion of 20-25 minutes at 2000-2500 (varied) with no idling whatsoever, is just an elaborate procedure that some people who don’t know what they are doing, cooked up in an attempt to prevent wiped lobes, when they use poor performing high zinc oils, or very poor performing high zinc “break-in” oils. They seemed to believe that the cam lobes don’t get enough oil at idle, and needs to have a significant engine rpm to fling oil onto the cam lobes. But, that is a total MYTH.
Anyone who actually builds engines, and has primed a traditional American V-8 engine using a drill (which typically spins the oil pump at an even slower speed than a normal idle does), with the intake manifold off, knows full well that the cam lobes are completely flooded with the oil flowing out from the lifter to lifter bore clearance. So, the whole idea of calling for no idling whatsoever, is just total nonsense.
All that special break-in procedure silliness is simply NOT needed, if you use a high psi capable oil.
For flat tappet cam break-in, I recommend:
Use a high psi capable oil, use plenty of cam lube on the lobes, when installing the cam, prime/pre-lube the engine with a drill, fire the engine up, and go drive the car.
No special silly break-in procedure is needed at all, when it is done the way I just described, with a high psi oil. You didn’t just get lucky with the way you did it in the past, because you did it essentially the same way I do it, which works just fine.
I would like to have a few 20w-50 motorcycle oils tested so I can find the best one to use. How do I go about it? Get the different oils and send them to you? If so can I get the address? I have really enjoyed your blog.
Thank you,
bsd
.
.
=================================
.
.
Hi bsd, it’s good to hear from you.
Just for the record, unless you are running air cooled bikes, 20W50 is too thick to be ideal, no matter what anyone or any Owner’s Manual tells you. If you are not running air cooled bikes, testing 20W50 oils would not be worth my time and effort to test them.
If you are running air cooled bikes, and really need to know how those oils compare, or if you have thinner motorcycle oils to test, then yes, you would need to send me the oils you want tested. But, I only accept 2 bottles at a time, since I have to fit their testing in between all my other commitments. For that reason, I have to spread out when the test oils are sent to me, to prevent the wait time for the results, from getting way too long.
The next slot I have open to receive additional oils for testing, would be the week before Thanksgiving. So, check back with me the week before that, and if you are still interested at that time, and I can provide shipping instructions then.
540 RAT One quick question before doing oil change tomorrow. Would it be okay to use 3 qts Pennzoil Conventional High Mileage 5w30 and 1 QT of the same oil in 10W40? (was contemplating getting Lucas Oil Stabilizer to help cut down on burning) but thought may make sense to simply add 1 Qt of the heavier 10w40. If you say it’s ok I will try this on Silverado as well. Thanks again for all the great advice – it seems the Pennzoil Conventional is right for both my vehicles after MUCH questioning and will get back to you in a month with results.
.
.
=============================
.
.
Hi Marc,
You can do a lot of things, and perhaps get away with it. But, that does not mean that what you do is always the best choice. Different viscosities of the same line of oil, do not always have identical formulations, other than viscosity. So, a witches brew mixture, can be compromised to the point, where it may perform worse than either one of the original oils do on their own. Besides, having only 25% of the final mixture being the thicker oil, you are talking about a relatively small increase in viscosity rating. In this case, you’d be looking at a witches brew mixture of 6.25W32.5, so it would not be worth the effort, in an attempt to cut down on oil burning.
Instead, I would recommend a much better solution, which would be to use “ONLY” the 10W40 Pennzoil Conventional High Mileage.
I strongly recommend to NEVER use any aftermarket motor oil additives at all. Because they typically make motor oils WORSE overall, by ruining the carefully balanced additive package, that their Chemical Engineers originally formulated the oil with. And aftermarket products that thicken the oil, generally cause additional air bubbles/foaming of the oil inside the engine, which greatly compromises an oil’s wear protection capability, and should be avoided at all cost.
Motor oil needs to ideally be as close as possible to pure liquid oil, for the best engine protection. Because liquid oil, is NOT compressible, and will keep engine components separated to prevent wear and/or damage. But, air bubble filled, foamy oil is compressible and can allow metal to metal contact, thus wear and/or damage. I have personal knowledge of one small block American V-8 engine that had been perfectly fine, and then lost its rod bearings, due to increased oil foaming, shortly after a commonly known motor oil thickener was added to its oil, at an oil change.
That owner learned the hard way, to never use motor oil thickeners. After the rod bearings were replaced (nothing else was wrong with the engine), there was never another problem with that engine, which only used motor oil after that, with NO aftermarket additives of any kind.
So, do yourself a favor and simply use a good oil in the first place, which will not need any help.
Dear RAT, could you please (in the future) when you add new oils to the list, mark their ranking (by #) so WE do not have to scroll thru the whole list. ie the new Mobil1 5W20 Extended Performance.
Thanks !
Craig
.
.
=============================
.
.
Yes.
OKAY! I”ll just use the Pennzoil 5w30 High Mileage Conventional on the Camry and the Pennzoil 10w40 High Mileage Conventional on the Chevy Silverado 8.1. Makes a lot of sense I’m glad I asked. Will get back with results within 60 days. You’re the best! I was about to add Rislone Concentrate. Marc
Hi RAT. First of all, thank you so much for your extensive work. I really enjoy spending hours on this blog.
Here is my question. I live in Denmark (Europe), and I drive a MkIV Toyota Supra BPU tuned to just over 400hp. I am currently running a Valvoline VR1 20W50, but after reading this blog I can clearly see that I need to run something like a 5W30. My problem is, the Valvoline SynPower 5W30 you have tested currently ranking #66 on your blog, has the API SN approval. But the SynPower 5W30 available here in Europe has API SL/CF. Is it the same oil or is there a difference? Also, would you recommend that oil for my 2JZ-GTE engine?
I looked at alot of the oils on your list, and almost none of them are available here in Denmark. The only one I could find that seems to match completely, is the 5W30 Mobil 1 ESP formula. It also has API SN approval, like the one you tested. And it is currently ranked #14 on your list, which would seem to be more than sufficient.
So choosing between these to types of oil, what would be your recommendation for my engine?
Car is being both daily driven (summertime), street and dragraced.
Thanks alot
Kenneth
.
.
====================================
.
.
Hi Kenneth,
I’m not specifically familiar with your MkIV Toyota Supra BPU with the 2JZ-GTE engine. So, I don’t know if that engine is internally factory stock, or if it has been modified with bearing clearances such that, it may require super thick oil like 20W50 in order to make sufficient oil pressure. If it is factory stock internally, then I would expect it to have been designed for 5W30 most likely. If so, then yes, 5W30 is what you should be running in it. Just make sure it can maintain reasonable oil pressure with 5W30.
I have not tested Valvoline SynPower 5W30, API SL/CF that is sold in Europe. Therefore, I have no test data on that oil. Being that it is an “unknown” to me, I would not use it. It is NOT the same as the 5W30 Valvoline SynPower, API SN synthetic = 94,942 psi, that I tested, which is sold in the US, and ranks 66th on my list.
I would use the 5W30 Mobil 1 ESP Formula (Emission System Protection), for diesel and gas engines, ACEA C2, C3, API SN, synthetic = 113,836 psi, that I did test, which is sold in the US, and ranks 14th on my list. However, we cannot be absolutely sure, that the version sold in Europe is the exact same formula I tested. But, it sounds like the one sold there, is as close as you can get to what I tested, and may even be the same.
I have a question about ATF. I do understand that this blog focuses solely on engine oils, and I’m not looking for you to do any testing of ATF’s. What I’m hoping for is some guidance that you may have on max temperatures of ATF and where they start to go into the red zone.
I’ve found out where limp mode is on my car’s auto trans – it is 250F – and I’m hoping the engineers at Ford chose that temperature well before the fluid starts to break down. I will be putting a larger trans cooler on my car over the winter months to alleviate this issue on the track.
I have already changed the trans fluid to ensure things don’t go awry.
Would you have any anecdotal, or concrete knowledge of the temp limits of modern ATFs?
Best,
Jim
.
.
===============================
.
.
Hi Jim,
No I don’t, sorry. I have not made a study of ATF.
As a retired metallurgist with a background in failure analysis I fully agree with your testing and conclusions. Flying helicopters many years ago there was an electric oil pump we started first and the turbine would be centered with proper bearing clearance then we engaged the starter. Is there any benefit to doing this in a car engine to reduce wear?
Thank you
Robin Brown
.
.
==============================.
.
.
Hi Robin,
Thanks for your endorsement of my Engineering testing and the resulting conclusions. I appreciate that, and it means a lot coming from someone with your background.
Yes of course, there would be a benefit to doing that with car engines as well, to reduce wear. But, in normal daily driven vehicles, it would only be a very minimal benefit, that would be difficult to measure during the length of time most people keep their vehicles.
However, for vehicles/engines that sit for significant periods of time, such as Classics, Hotrods and Race cars, there could well be a measurable benefit. And many of us more or less duplicate that in a simpler way, by pre-lubing/priming the engine with an electric drill, to operate the oil pump before firing the engine, or by using an accumulator system that pressurizes the engine’s oiling system by pulling a lever to release a reservoir of saved pressurized oil, before firing the engine.
Hi RAT !
So I don’t have to scroll thru the list, please advise if you have tested Schaeffer’s 5W30 syn and/or their racing oil ?
Thanks !
Craig
.
.
==================================
.
.
WOW, out of over 360,000 views of this Blog, you are the only one who continues to complain about searching/scrolling. I told you that this is a basic simple Blog. It does not have any sophisticated features. Does it really put you out too much to actually look for oils on a numbered list? I have spent an enormous amount of my own time, money and effort, to put this Blog together to share with other car guys as a courtesy, for FREE.
Yet, you cannot be bothered to spend a few minutes to scroll through the Wear Protection Ranking List to look for an oil you are interested in, like everyone else does. I have tested 206 oils so far, and I do not memorize every oil I have ever tested. So, I have to scroll through the list myself, to find things for you.
I will do it for you this one final time, but do not ask me to do this for you again. Unless you are a Trauma Surgeon, my time is just as valuable as yours is. You are no doubt a grown man, so you can scroll through the list just the same as I can. If you can’t be bothered to do this in the future, then you will just be out of luck.
Hi 540 Rat,
Just read test numbers 56 and 126,re Castrol Edge 5W-30 synthetic and later version.
You may find this hard to believe, but here in NZ there are two versions of Castrol Edge 5W-30 on the market; the first version has an API rating of SL and the just released version shows no API rating on the bottle at all !!
As far I know the SL rating was for vehicles manufactured before 2003 and
SN was for vehicles manufactured after 2010.
Many unwary motorists will use these oils in their late model vehicles because they are synthetic and in gold Castrol bottles.
Outlets for this oil have no answer to the SL and the “disappearing API”
rating.Any comments appreciated. ;
Trust you are well,keep up the good work on oils.
Cheers,
Frank.
.
.
=============================
.
.
Hi Frank, it’s good to hear from you.
I don’t know what is going on with Castrol motor oil these days. It would seem that they are under new Management, who is just bouncing off the walls, with no clue what they are doing. Apparently they are cutting product production costs to maximize profits. Whatever the case, testing has shown that they are greatly reducing the quality/capability of their motor oil products.
I find that personally very disappointing, because I had used Castrol motor oil myself in all of my own vehicles, for many, many years, when they were at the top of the Industry. It is very sad that the excellent quality they had been known for, for decades, is now apparently gone. Whoever is now in charge of Castrol, is driving that brand into the ground. So, I have completely stopped using Castrol motor oil.
Here are some of the disappointing Castrol test results that I have come across in past couple of years or so.
.
=============
.
Ranks # 60, 5W30 Castrol Edge with Titanium, API SN synthetic (gold bottle) = 95,717 psi, which puts it in the OUTSTANDING wear protection category.
This is an older version that is no longer available. It has been replaced by 5W30 Castrol Edge Extended Performance (gold bottle). See just below.
.
Ranks #135, 5W30 Castrol Edge Extended Performance, API SN, GM dexos 1 approved, synthetic (gold bottle) = 74,899 psi, which puts it only in the MODEST wear protection category.
This was the latest current version of this oil when tested Fall 2015. For reference, this oil’s wear protection capability dropped 20,818 psi, and it dropped over 70 Ranking positions, compared to the original 5W30 Castrol Edge with Titanium above.
.
==============
.
Ranks # 63, 5W30 Castrol GTX, API SN conventional = 95,392 psi, which puts it in the OUTSTANDING wear protection category.
This is an older version of this oil that is no longer available. See 5W30 Castrol GTX “ULTRACLEAN” below, for current capability.
.
Ranks #120, 5W30 Castrol GTX “ULTRACLEAN, API SN conventional = 78,664 psi, which puts it only in the GOOD wear protection category.
This oil claims 50% better sludge protection than Industry standards.
This was the latest current version of this oil when tested Summer 2017. For reference, this oil’s wear protection capability dropped 16,728 psi, and it dropped over 50 Ranking positions, compared to the previous 5W30 Castrol GTX above, that was NOT called ULTRACLEAN.
.
==============
.
Ranks #144, 5W30 Castrol GTX Magnatec, API SN, GM dexos 1 approved, synthetic blend = 73,566 psi, which puts it only in the MODEST wear protection category.
This oil claims to have molecules that cling to parts, forming an extra layer of protection during warm-up, reducing engine wear.
Is anyone not aware of it, you click the F3 key and search the page for what you are looking for.
.
.
===============================
.
.
Hi Dave,
Thanks for your tip. You still have to scroll, but at least the words you are searching for, will show up in yellow, which is a big help. I’ll update the text at the beginning of my Blog, the next time I make a change, to include your tip. That way, it will at least be available for readers to see, if they read the beginning of the Blog.
Will you be testing Royal Purple HMX. Its is their newer high mileage oil formulation. It has less Zinc and Phosphorus but still contains there proprietary synerlec additive. I am still puzzled by the HPS testing so low. I have seen on youtube Royal purple 5w40 synerlec blend tested recently on youtube at 100C (212F) for a 5min static load bearing test and it has performed incredible compared to other oils he has tested including some you have tested. His results seem to mirror some of your rankings except this royal purple??? I would be very curious what you think of his testing. Let me know what you think about testing the HMX blend of Royal purple. Also his wear test show some oils have worse protection when cooler and improve when at 100C. ??Sorry to ask so much info. lol Great work on testing. I appreciate the work you put into this. Great research. !
Sorry for second inquiry. Seems like from some research the regular Royal Purple with Synerlec seems to be better than the HPS or XPR formulation. Is this what you have seen in your experience. I guess they dont make a non API synerlec formulation other than HPS or XPR and HMX. This is why I am curious about HMX formulation!
.
.
=========================
.
.
Hi there, thanks for the compliments.
I watched a couple of his video’s. My observation was that his methodology and execution are very crude, low budget, and poorly developed. Then to add insult to injury, in the ones I viewed, all indications were that the motor oil was tested only at room temperature, which is of no real value. From what I saw, the whole thing overall is essentially worthless, from an Engineering standpoint. I mean no disrespect to him, because I am sure he means well, and has gone to a lot of trouble to test all those oils. I am simply answering your question honestly. He can do whatever he wants, and people can follow whatever they want.
I have no particular plans to test Royal Purple HMX. Because I have been so disappointed in the overall performance of their products, that I have little to no interest in wasting any more of my time and effort, to test more of them. It is my understanding, that their proprietary synerlec additive, is what they have always used in all their motor oils.
540RAT,
Once again you are right! Returning from a 1,600 Trip the Pennzoil High Mileage 5w30 Conventional Yellow Container 102,000 PSI proved to burn off 50% less oil than Valvoline High Mileage 5w30 High Mileage 123,000 PSI. So, thank you for that. This was all highway driving so not sure how it will fair yet locally.
*****I noticed that Chevron Supreme Conventional 5w30 seems to be the DEAL OF DEALS at $2.35 per qt at Walmart if you purchase 5qt Blue jug. This is very very tempting with your test rating of 100,011 PSI this is an Outstanding motor oil albeit not High Mileage. I’ve heard that it is partial synthetic?
I spoke to corporate at Valvoline just an FYI for your readers. Valvoline Maxlife 5w30 High Mileage Red Container 92,639 PSI is “Over 30% Full Synthetic” the exact amount is proprietary.
My question to 540Rat would be about Roto Tillers or Snow Blowers if you had to use a 30 weight motor oil. Considering High Summer Temps for a roto tiller and cold weather for Snow Blowers that both required a 30 weight oil what would you use say your top 3 choices. I know these motors must get very hot. I remember that Pennzoil Ultra Platinum only broke down 6% or was it 3% at very high heat. So, please advise on this. It looks like I will not have to go up to a 40 weight oil but will keep you posted on local driving burn off for the 2001 Camry and Silverado. Thanks again friend.
PS. My mechanics are rolling in their grease over this Castrol oil situation being they own a BP Station and have been using Castrol forever – they sort of resent me telling them LOL.
.
.
===================
.
.
Hi again,
Never believe anything you hear about motor oil, because what people say is generally wrong. If a motor oil is a synthetic blend, it will say so on the bottle.
I have very little data on straight 30wt oils, so I do not have any particular recommendations for that.
Hello,
I search best pao/ester oil, I’m interested in Gulf Competition, but I’m nervous of, While this oil is excellent for motorsport use, it is not recommended for use in road cars if the car or its engine is still under the original manufacturer’s warranty”.
So my question is, you would recommend this oil for the normal style driving?
Use for: I have Honda Civic Type R EK9, 1.6-litre 16v 4cyl Power: 182bhp @ 8200rpm, 118lb ft @ 7500rpm
I’am not racing, it’s my daily car, but often VTEC. I change oil every 6000 km.
Your blog is fantastic!
Other interesting tips for oil testing:
RAVENOL RSP or REP
FUCHS TITAN RACE PRO S 5W30
YACCO GALAXIE 5W-40
I see in GULF 5W-40 technical list pour point only -36 ºC. I thought pao / ester generally have a much lower poor point.
What is gulf specific and why he has such a high poor point?
Thank you!
Mira
.
.
===============================
.
.
Hi Mira,
I agree with Gulf, I would not recommend using Gulf Competition motor oil in normal daily driver street cars.
You would need to contact Gulf for questions regarding their motor oil formula pour point concerns.
I didn’t see any test results for Walmart full synthetic 5w-30 and 10w-30, or their regular oil in those grades. Just curious. Ever test Mobil-1 5w-30 with Pro Long? or tests with Slick 50 added? We found Pro Long to work awesome as we tested it on a lathe with a steel bar and Vise Grip while spinning the bar. It freed it right up. Motor Up was almost as good. Used it before in my 440 Mopar for 1/4 drag racing, however adding more than the bottle didn’t do any further reduction in times so one doesn’t need to add over 12 oz to oil?
I took out 2 cam shafts last year on my 440 motor after never ever having done that before in 25 years of racing. I think I was using Wallart regular oil for break in (10w-30) and the second cam that went out I think I was using Rotella T. One was hydrauilic and one was a solid. I then found your tests after having to rebuild the motor 2x in a row! Needless to say I became good at pulling it from the car and stripping it down quickly. I was too late both times as the mains and rod bearings were shot-very quickly I add.
Since I have hi-volume oil pump, I am only using 1. Mobil 1 5w-30; 2. Valvoline 5w-30 hi mileage syn; 3. QS syn 5w-30. In my race car and all my vehicles. All have outstanding PSI. I am thinking 0w-40 Mobile 1 is too thick for the 440 motor and will cost HP. I have been to 3 Walmarts lately and all the Valvoline 5w-30 hi mileage full syn oils are gone!! The truth is out, at least here in Northern California
I think in many parts of country the Walmart oil is made by Mag 1?
Thanks again. What a blessing you are to give actual oil test data w/o the companies hype.
.
.
=============================
.
.
Hi 440guy, it’s good to hear from you.
I have a 99 K2500 Suburban with 125k miles and the 454 motor. Concerning oil burn off between 5k miles oil changes; Switching from QS Full Synthetic 5W-30 to Mobil 1 5W-30 I have noticed more oil burn off at the 3k mark with the Mobil 1. My next oil change will be with Valvoline Max Life Full Synthetic 5W-30 Hi-Mileage. Do you think this is a good switch to reduce oil burn off between changes? Since the Valvoline Syn Hi mileage ranked so high in your latest testing, I am excited to see it perform. I guess I am a “wanna be” oil geek at heart if I get excited about oil!
Thanks again
Jeff
.
.
=================================
.
.
Hi Jeff,
Using a High Mileage motor oil would certainly be a better choice for reducing oil consumption with an older engine. But, using synthetic oils can result in the most oil consumption, using synthetic-blend oils can result in less oil consumption, and using conventional oils often results in the least oil consumption. Those are the typical trends seen with older engines. But, the only way to know for sure what the results will be with any particular engine, is to try it and see.
So, you could start out with the 5W30 Valvoline Full Synthetic High Mileage with MaxLife Technology, API SN, GM dexos 1 approved (silver bottle), and see how it works out regarding oil consumption in your particular engine, and go from there.
Hello 540 Rat. First, I really like your blog, and the oil testing that you do…great work. Second, have you considered testing any of the new CK4 rated diesel oils from the Big 3? Supposedly, the new CK4 diesel oils offer better protection over CJ4 oils. Additionally, CK4/SN rated universal (mixed fleet) oils have reduced zinc and phosphorus levels to 800 PPM. For that reason, Ford has not approved their use in the 6.7L Powerstroke diesel. I am very curious if the reduction of zinc phosphorus really impact diesel engine wear protection. Mobil and Chevron claim wear protection in the new CK4/SN formulations are better. However, Shell and Valvoline dropped the SN rating from their CK4 oils, and they retain zinc and phosphorus levels greater than 1000 PPM.
.
.
===================================
.
.
Hi Riley,
I don’t have any particular plans to test those oils. But, if you are interested enough in their capability to send me some, I could test them for you when I can fit them into my schedule.
Take care,
540 RAT
Any recommendations on oil filters? Very impressed with your findings. Have 2 flat tappet vehicles(VR1 oil) but am switching to synthetic Valvoline full synthetic w maxlife. I want to ensure my engines don’t fail prematurely. Also use Valvoline maxlife (red) in my dailydriver with 135k.
Meant to say switching to Valvoline full synthetic w maxlife- silver bottle;123k psi
Thank you for posting the findings
Danny
.
.
==========================
.
.
Hi Danny,
I have not performed a comprehensive study on oil filters, so I do not have any particular recommendations.
Take care,
540 RAT
540 rat,
My dad Dave is sending the mazda oil and the Amsoil signiture in 0w-20. I’m curious in the difference between Amsoil’s OE and signiture series 5w-20 in their new formulas. Can I send you one of each for testing?
Thanks,
Josh
.
.
===============================
.
.
Hi Josh,
I need to spread out oil test shipments. So, if you can wait and ship yours out the last week of October, that would be OK.
Refer to the same shipping instructions your Dad is using.
Take care,
540 RAT
540 Rat I can’t find it on your blog but Have you ever tested Mobile 1 10w40 Full Synthetic High Mileage? I may have to go up to a 40 weight to stop oil consumption and as I am trying Pennzoil Conventional High Mileage 5w30 on my Camry I would like to stay with a synthetic for 2001 Silverado 2500 8.1. – Thanks. PS the Camry burnt off 1 Qt of Valvoline Full Synthetic Max Life 5w30 (Silver Bottle) after only 1,400 miles. Trying the Pennzoil Conventional per your suggestion will let you know – thanks again .. Johnny
.
.
============================
.
.
Hi Johnny,
I have not tested that particular oil. I do not keep tested oils off my Wear Protection Ranking List. If I test an oil, I put it on there.
Thanks for the info on your oil consumption. Keep me posted on how things go.
Take care,
540 RAT
Hello. It’s BARBARRIER. I ran the conventional oil in my suburban for 11 years with no cam problems. I did another test, 5w30 vs 5w20, with a different motor. I built a 4.0 jeep motor, 2000 Cherokee, last year. It’s .020 over with hypereutectic pistons, and the head was milled 12 thou. Other than that it’s completely stock parts. The mains are .0022 and the rods a little smaller. Don’t remember the exact size. I’ve been running Quaker state ultimate durability 5w30 and k&n 3001 filter since I built it. It ldles at 600 rpm, hot, in gear. The temp runs right on the 210 mark, a tiny higher on very hot days. The 5w20 Quaker state ultimate durability idles at 700 rpm, hot in gear. And it never got exactly on the 210 mark like the other oil. Even on hot days. The motor”seems” to spin or rev easier and smoother on 5w20. Now. To me it does seem a little more noisy than the 5w30 but that’s just me. Used a mechanical after market oil guage for the 5w20 and hot, in park, idling the oil pressure was 17 psi. It would jump to 50 psi real quick when hitting the throttle, and not even that hard. Haven’t checked oil pressure using external mechanical guage with 5w30. So, I’m thinking about using 5w20 on next oil change, and sticking with it, but the noise bothers me lol. This is what happened with my particular application. Love the info in your blog.
.
.
=====================================
.
.
Hi BARBARRIER,
It is not unusual for some engines to make a little more mechanical noise with 5W20, compared to 5W30, especially if they were not originally designed for oil as thin as 5W20. I usually suggest that people don’t go to oil as thin as 5W20, if their engine was not originally designed for it.
Your 17 psi hot idle oil pressure does meet the old rule of thumb of “at least 10 psi for every 1,000 rpm”, for High Performance and Racing engines. But, 17 psi is rather low, and if the engine happened to get hotter and the oil thinner, that would be concern. I suggest that in your particular case, it would be better overall, to use the 5W30.
Take care,
540 RAT
Mazda and Amsoil 0w-20 shipping today.
Scheduled Delivery: 10/11/2017
.
.
============================
.
.
OK Dave, thanks for the heads-up.
540 RAT
How do I go straight to the test data list
.
.
===========================
.
.
You can just scroll right down to it. This is only a very simple basic Blog.
540 RAT
540Rat,
Thank you for the response. I have taken your advice and have purchased the Mobil 1 European Formula 0W40 for my cam breakin. It’s the bottle with the “FS” on the label. Last question is in regards to the cam breakin time and oil life. Do you recommend draining the oil and replacing the filter after the suggested 30 minutes? I actually have some NOS Delphi lifters that have an instruction sheet with them. They suggest 20-25 minutes at 2000-2500 (varied) with no idling whatsoever. But nothing about replacing the oil and filter immediately after. I will be honest with you and you may think I’m nuts, but I have never once broke a cam in. Roller, flat or mechanical flat tappet. I always used a liberal amount of cam lube, prelube the motor with a drill, and fire it up. Granted the last cam I swapped was a hydraulic flat in 2006. I can’t remember what oil I used, but I almost always used Mobil 1 10W40 full synthetic except for one fill I performed using Lucas racing synthetic 5W50 I believe. I may had just gotten lucky, who knows, but I am curious if this may just be a myth like the zinc content. Thanks again for your help and response. I break this cam in next week.
Matt
.
.
=================================
.
.
Hi again Matt,
The recommendation to drain the oil and replace the oil filter after 30 minutes, is a suggestion sometimes given that pertains to a full engine rebuild, not for just a cam swap. You could do that for just a cam swap if you want, because it won’t hurt anything. But, it is not absolutely necessary. I don’t bother doing that for just a cam swap. And when I have cut oil filters open later on, after a cam swap, I’ve never seen any sign of metal particles, as long as I’ve used a high psi capable oil.
The flat tappet cam break-in suggestion of 20-25 minutes at 2000-2500 (varied) with no idling whatsoever, is just an elaborate procedure that some people who don’t know what they are doing, cooked up in an attempt to prevent wiped lobes, when they use poor performing high zinc oils, or very poor performing high zinc “break-in” oils. They seemed to believe that the cam lobes don’t get enough oil at idle, and needs to have a significant engine rpm to fling oil onto the cam lobes. But, that is a total MYTH.
Anyone who actually builds engines, and has primed a traditional American V-8 engine using a drill (which typically spins the oil pump at an even slower speed than a normal idle does), with the intake manifold off, knows full well that the cam lobes are completely flooded with the oil flowing out from the lifter to lifter bore clearance. So, the whole idea of calling for no idling whatsoever, is just total nonsense.
All that special break-in procedure silliness is simply NOT needed, if you use a high psi capable oil.
For flat tappet cam break-in, I recommend:
Use a high psi capable oil, use plenty of cam lube on the lobes, when installing the cam, prime/pre-lube the engine with a drill, fire the engine up, and go drive the car.
No special silly break-in procedure is needed at all, when it is done the way I just described, with a high psi oil. You didn’t just get lucky with the way you did it in the past, because you did it essentially the same way I do it, which works just fine.
Let me know how it goes,
540 RAT
I would like to have a few 20w-50 motorcycle oils tested so I can find the best one to use. How do I go about it? Get the different oils and send them to you? If so can I get the address? I have really enjoyed your blog.
Thank you,
bsd
.
.
=================================
.
.
Hi bsd, it’s good to hear from you.
Just for the record, unless you are running air cooled bikes, 20W50 is too thick to be ideal, no matter what anyone or any Owner’s Manual tells you. If you are not running air cooled bikes, testing 20W50 oils would not be worth my time and effort to test them.
If you are running air cooled bikes, and really need to know how those oils compare, or if you have thinner motorcycle oils to test, then yes, you would need to send me the oils you want tested. But, I only accept 2 bottles at a time, since I have to fit their testing in between all my other commitments. For that reason, I have to spread out when the test oils are sent to me, to prevent the wait time for the results, from getting way too long.
The next slot I have open to receive additional oils for testing, would be the week before Thanksgiving. So, check back with me the week before that, and if you are still interested at that time, and I can provide shipping instructions then.
Take care,
540 RAT
540 RAT One quick question before doing oil change tomorrow. Would it be okay to use 3 qts Pennzoil Conventional High Mileage 5w30 and 1 QT of the same oil in 10W40? (was contemplating getting Lucas Oil Stabilizer to help cut down on burning) but thought may make sense to simply add 1 Qt of the heavier 10w40. If you say it’s ok I will try this on Silverado as well. Thanks again for all the great advice – it seems the Pennzoil Conventional is right for both my vehicles after MUCH questioning and will get back to you in a month with results.
.
.
=============================
.
.
Hi Marc,
You can do a lot of things, and perhaps get away with it. But, that does not mean that what you do is always the best choice. Different viscosities of the same line of oil, do not always have identical formulations, other than viscosity. So, a witches brew mixture, can be compromised to the point, where it may perform worse than either one of the original oils do on their own. Besides, having only 25% of the final mixture being the thicker oil, you are talking about a relatively small increase in viscosity rating. In this case, you’d be looking at a witches brew mixture of 6.25W32.5, so it would not be worth the effort, in an attempt to cut down on oil burning.
Instead, I would recommend a much better solution, which would be to use “ONLY” the 10W40 Pennzoil Conventional High Mileage.
I strongly recommend to NEVER use any aftermarket motor oil additives at all. Because they typically make motor oils WORSE overall, by ruining the carefully balanced additive package, that their Chemical Engineers originally formulated the oil with. And aftermarket products that thicken the oil, generally cause additional air bubbles/foaming of the oil inside the engine, which greatly compromises an oil’s wear protection capability, and should be avoided at all cost.
Motor oil needs to ideally be as close as possible to pure liquid oil, for the best engine protection. Because liquid oil, is NOT compressible, and will keep engine components separated to prevent wear and/or damage. But, air bubble filled, foamy oil is compressible and can allow metal to metal contact, thus wear and/or damage. I have personal knowledge of one small block American V-8 engine that had been perfectly fine, and then lost its rod bearings, due to increased oil foaming, shortly after a commonly known motor oil thickener was added to its oil, at an oil change.
That owner learned the hard way, to never use motor oil thickeners. After the rod bearings were replaced (nothing else was wrong with the engine), there was never another problem with that engine, which only used motor oil after that, with NO aftermarket additives of any kind.
So, do yourself a favor and simply use a good oil in the first place, which will not need any help.
Take care,
540 RAT
Dear RAT, could you please (in the future) when you add new oils to the list, mark their ranking (by #) so WE do not have to scroll thru the whole list. ie the new Mobil1 5W20 Extended Performance.
Thanks !
Craig
.
.
=============================
.
.
Yes.
540 RAT
OKAY! I”ll just use the Pennzoil 5w30 High Mileage Conventional on the Camry and the Pennzoil 10w40 High Mileage Conventional on the Chevy Silverado 8.1. Makes a lot of sense I’m glad I asked. Will get back with results within 60 days. You’re the best! I was about to add Rislone Concentrate. Marc
Hi RAT. First of all, thank you so much for your extensive work. I really enjoy spending hours on this blog.
Here is my question. I live in Denmark (Europe), and I drive a MkIV Toyota Supra BPU tuned to just over 400hp. I am currently running a Valvoline VR1 20W50, but after reading this blog I can clearly see that I need to run something like a 5W30. My problem is, the Valvoline SynPower 5W30 you have tested currently ranking #66 on your blog, has the API SN approval. But the SynPower 5W30 available here in Europe has API SL/CF. Is it the same oil or is there a difference? Also, would you recommend that oil for my 2JZ-GTE engine?
I looked at alot of the oils on your list, and almost none of them are available here in Denmark. The only one I could find that seems to match completely, is the 5W30 Mobil 1 ESP formula. It also has API SN approval, like the one you tested. And it is currently ranked #14 on your list, which would seem to be more than sufficient.
So choosing between these to types of oil, what would be your recommendation for my engine?
Car is being both daily driven (summertime), street and dragraced.
Thanks alot
Kenneth
.
.
====================================
.
.
Hi Kenneth,
I’m not specifically familiar with your MkIV Toyota Supra BPU with the 2JZ-GTE engine. So, I don’t know if that engine is internally factory stock, or if it has been modified with bearing clearances such that, it may require super thick oil like 20W50 in order to make sufficient oil pressure. If it is factory stock internally, then I would expect it to have been designed for 5W30 most likely. If so, then yes, 5W30 is what you should be running in it. Just make sure it can maintain reasonable oil pressure with 5W30.
I have not tested Valvoline SynPower 5W30, API SL/CF that is sold in Europe. Therefore, I have no test data on that oil. Being that it is an “unknown” to me, I would not use it. It is NOT the same as the 5W30 Valvoline SynPower, API SN synthetic = 94,942 psi, that I tested, which is sold in the US, and ranks 66th on my list.
I would use the 5W30 Mobil 1 ESP Formula (Emission System Protection), for diesel and gas engines, ACEA C2, C3, API SN, synthetic = 113,836 psi, that I did test, which is sold in the US, and ranks 14th on my list. However, we cannot be absolutely sure, that the version sold in Europe is the exact same formula I tested. But, it sounds like the one sold there, is as close as you can get to what I tested, and may even be the same.
Take care,
540 RAT
Dear Mr. Rat,
As always, thanks for maintaining this blog!
I have a question about ATF. I do understand that this blog focuses solely on engine oils, and I’m not looking for you to do any testing of ATF’s. What I’m hoping for is some guidance that you may have on max temperatures of ATF and where they start to go into the red zone.
I’ve found out where limp mode is on my car’s auto trans – it is 250F – and I’m hoping the engineers at Ford chose that temperature well before the fluid starts to break down. I will be putting a larger trans cooler on my car over the winter months to alleviate this issue on the track.
I have already changed the trans fluid to ensure things don’t go awry.
Would you have any anecdotal, or concrete knowledge of the temp limits of modern ATFs?
Best,
Jim
.
.
===============================
.
.
Hi Jim,
No I don’t, sorry. I have not made a study of ATF.
Take care,
540 RAT
As a retired metallurgist with a background in failure analysis I fully agree with your testing and conclusions. Flying helicopters many years ago there was an electric oil pump we started first and the turbine would be centered with proper bearing clearance then we engaged the starter. Is there any benefit to doing this in a car engine to reduce wear?
Thank you
Robin Brown
.
.
==============================.
.
.
Hi Robin,
Thanks for your endorsement of my Engineering testing and the resulting conclusions. I appreciate that, and it means a lot coming from someone with your background.
Yes of course, there would be a benefit to doing that with car engines as well, to reduce wear. But, in normal daily driven vehicles, it would only be a very minimal benefit, that would be difficult to measure during the length of time most people keep their vehicles.
However, for vehicles/engines that sit for significant periods of time, such as Classics, Hotrods and Race cars, there could well be a measurable benefit. And many of us more or less duplicate that in a simpler way, by pre-lubing/priming the engine with an electric drill, to operate the oil pump before firing the engine, or by using an accumulator system that pressurizes the engine’s oiling system by pulling a lever to release a reservoir of saved pressurized oil, before firing the engine.
Thanks for getting in touch,
540 RAT
Hi RAT !
So I don’t have to scroll thru the list, please advise if you have tested Schaeffer’s 5W30 syn and/or their racing oil ?
Thanks !
Craig
.
.
==================================
.
.
WOW, out of over 360,000 views of this Blog, you are the only one who continues to complain about searching/scrolling. I told you that this is a basic simple Blog. It does not have any sophisticated features. Does it really put you out too much to actually look for oils on a numbered list? I have spent an enormous amount of my own time, money and effort, to put this Blog together to share with other car guys as a courtesy, for FREE.
Yet, you cannot be bothered to spend a few minutes to scroll through the Wear Protection Ranking List to look for an oil you are interested in, like everyone else does. I have tested 206 oils so far, and I do not memorize every oil I have ever tested. So, I have to scroll through the list myself, to find things for you.
I will do it for you this one final time, but do not ask me to do this for you again. Unless you are a Trauma Surgeon, my time is just as valuable as yours is. You are no doubt a grown man, so you can scroll through the list just the same as I can. If you can’t be bothered to do this in the future, then you will just be out of luck.
Here are the Schaeffer’s oils I have tested:
5W30 Schaeffer’s Supreme 9000, API SN, synthetic = 84,118 psi, ranking = 107
5W30 Schaeffer Supreme 7000 Synthetic Plus, API SN = 66,099 psi, ranking = 178
540 RAT
Hi 540 Rat,
Just read test numbers 56 and 126,re Castrol Edge 5W-30 synthetic and later version.
You may find this hard to believe, but here in NZ there are two versions of Castrol Edge 5W-30 on the market; the first version has an API rating of SL and the just released version shows no API rating on the bottle at all !!
As far I know the SL rating was for vehicles manufactured before 2003 and
SN was for vehicles manufactured after 2010.
Many unwary motorists will use these oils in their late model vehicles because they are synthetic and in gold Castrol bottles.
Outlets for this oil have no answer to the SL and the “disappearing API”
rating.Any comments appreciated. ;
Trust you are well,keep up the good work on oils.
Cheers,
Frank.
.
.
=============================
.
.
Hi Frank, it’s good to hear from you.
I don’t know what is going on with Castrol motor oil these days. It would seem that they are under new Management, who is just bouncing off the walls, with no clue what they are doing. Apparently they are cutting product production costs to maximize profits. Whatever the case, testing has shown that they are greatly reducing the quality/capability of their motor oil products.
I find that personally very disappointing, because I had used Castrol motor oil myself in all of my own vehicles, for many, many years, when they were at the top of the Industry. It is very sad that the excellent quality they had been known for, for decades, is now apparently gone. Whoever is now in charge of Castrol, is driving that brand into the ground. So, I have completely stopped using Castrol motor oil.
Here are some of the disappointing Castrol test results that I have come across in past couple of years or so.
.
=============
.
Ranks # 60, 5W30 Castrol Edge with Titanium, API SN synthetic (gold bottle) = 95,717 psi, which puts it in the OUTSTANDING wear protection category.
This is an older version that is no longer available. It has been replaced by 5W30 Castrol Edge Extended Performance (gold bottle). See just below.
.
Ranks #135, 5W30 Castrol Edge Extended Performance, API SN, GM dexos 1 approved, synthetic (gold bottle) = 74,899 psi, which puts it only in the MODEST wear protection category.
This was the latest current version of this oil when tested Fall 2015. For reference, this oil’s wear protection capability dropped 20,818 psi, and it dropped over 70 Ranking positions, compared to the original 5W30 Castrol Edge with Titanium above.
.
==============
.
Ranks # 63, 5W30 Castrol GTX, API SN conventional = 95,392 psi, which puts it in the OUTSTANDING wear protection category.
This is an older version of this oil that is no longer available. See 5W30 Castrol GTX “ULTRACLEAN” below, for current capability.
.
Ranks #120, 5W30 Castrol GTX “ULTRACLEAN, API SN conventional = 78,664 psi, which puts it only in the GOOD wear protection category.
This oil claims 50% better sludge protection than Industry standards.
This was the latest current version of this oil when tested Summer 2017. For reference, this oil’s wear protection capability dropped 16,728 psi, and it dropped over 50 Ranking positions, compared to the previous 5W30 Castrol GTX above, that was NOT called ULTRACLEAN.
.
==============
.
Ranks #144, 5W30 Castrol GTX Magnatec, API SN, GM dexos 1 approved, synthetic blend = 73,566 psi, which puts it only in the MODEST wear protection category.
This oil claims to have molecules that cling to parts, forming an extra layer of protection during warm-up, reducing engine wear.
Thanks for getting in touch,
540 RAT
Is anyone not aware of it, you click the F3 key and search the page for what you are looking for.
.
.
===============================
.
.
Hi Dave,
Thanks for your tip. You still have to scroll, but at least the words you are searching for, will show up in yellow, which is a big help. I’ll update the text at the beginning of my Blog, the next time I make a change, to include your tip. That way, it will at least be available for readers to see, if they read the beginning of the Blog.
Thanks again for your input,
540 RAT
Will you be testing Royal Purple HMX. Its is their newer high mileage oil formulation. It has less Zinc and Phosphorus but still contains there proprietary synerlec additive. I am still puzzled by the HPS testing so low. I have seen on youtube Royal purple 5w40 synerlec blend tested recently on youtube at 100C (212F) for a 5min static load bearing test and it has performed incredible compared to other oils he has tested including some you have tested. His results seem to mirror some of your rankings except this royal purple??? I would be very curious what you think of his testing. Let me know what you think about testing the HMX blend of Royal purple. Also his wear test show some oils have worse protection when cooler and improve when at 100C. ??Sorry to ask so much info. lol Great work on testing. I appreciate the work you put into this. Great research. !
Sorry for second inquiry. Seems like from some research the regular Royal Purple with Synerlec seems to be better than the HPS or XPR formulation. Is this what you have seen in your experience. I guess they dont make a non API synerlec formulation other than HPS or XPR and HMX. This is why I am curious about HMX formulation!
.
.
=========================
.
.
Hi there, thanks for the compliments.
I watched a couple of his video’s. My observation was that his methodology and execution are very crude, low budget, and poorly developed. Then to add insult to injury, in the ones I viewed, all indications were that the motor oil was tested only at room temperature, which is of no real value. From what I saw, the whole thing overall is essentially worthless, from an Engineering standpoint. I mean no disrespect to him, because I am sure he means well, and has gone to a lot of trouble to test all those oils. I am simply answering your question honestly. He can do whatever he wants, and people can follow whatever they want.
I have no particular plans to test Royal Purple HMX. Because I have been so disappointed in the overall performance of their products, that I have little to no interest in wasting any more of my time and effort, to test more of them. It is my understanding, that their proprietary synerlec additive, is what they have always used in all their motor oils.
Take care,
540 RAT
540RAT,
Once again you are right! Returning from a 1,600 Trip the Pennzoil High Mileage 5w30 Conventional Yellow Container 102,000 PSI proved to burn off 50% less oil than Valvoline High Mileage 5w30 High Mileage 123,000 PSI. So, thank you for that. This was all highway driving so not sure how it will fair yet locally.
*****I noticed that Chevron Supreme Conventional 5w30 seems to be the DEAL OF DEALS at $2.35 per qt at Walmart if you purchase 5qt Blue jug. This is very very tempting with your test rating of 100,011 PSI this is an Outstanding motor oil albeit not High Mileage. I’ve heard that it is partial synthetic?
I spoke to corporate at Valvoline just an FYI for your readers. Valvoline Maxlife 5w30 High Mileage Red Container 92,639 PSI is “Over 30% Full Synthetic” the exact amount is proprietary.
My question to 540Rat would be about Roto Tillers or Snow Blowers if you had to use a 30 weight motor oil. Considering High Summer Temps for a roto tiller and cold weather for Snow Blowers that both required a 30 weight oil what would you use say your top 3 choices. I know these motors must get very hot. I remember that Pennzoil Ultra Platinum only broke down 6% or was it 3% at very high heat. So, please advise on this. It looks like I will not have to go up to a 40 weight oil but will keep you posted on local driving burn off for the 2001 Camry and Silverado. Thanks again friend.
PS. My mechanics are rolling in their grease over this Castrol oil situation being they own a BP Station and have been using Castrol forever – they sort of resent me telling them LOL.
.
.
===================
.
.
Hi again,
Never believe anything you hear about motor oil, because what people say is generally wrong. If a motor oil is a synthetic blend, it will say so on the bottle.
I have very little data on straight 30wt oils, so I do not have any particular recommendations for that.
Take care,
540 RAT
Hello,
I search best pao/ester oil, I’m interested in Gulf Competition, but I’m nervous of, While this oil is excellent for motorsport use, it is not recommended for use in road cars if the car or its engine is still under the original manufacturer’s warranty”.
So my question is, you would recommend this oil for the normal style driving?
Use for: I have Honda Civic Type R EK9, 1.6-litre 16v 4cyl Power: 182bhp @ 8200rpm, 118lb ft @ 7500rpm
I’am not racing, it’s my daily car, but often VTEC. I change oil every 6000 km.
Your blog is fantastic!
Other interesting tips for oil testing:
RAVENOL RSP or REP
FUCHS TITAN RACE PRO S 5W30
YACCO GALAXIE 5W-40
I see in GULF 5W-40 technical list pour point only -36 ºC. I thought pao / ester generally have a much lower poor point.
What is gulf specific and why he has such a high poor point?
Thank you!
Mira
.
.
===============================
.
.
Hi Mira,
I agree with Gulf, I would not recommend using Gulf Competition motor oil in normal daily driver street cars.
You would need to contact Gulf for questions regarding their motor oil formula pour point concerns.
Take care,
540 RAT
I didn’t see any test results for Walmart full synthetic 5w-30 and 10w-30, or their regular oil in those grades. Just curious. Ever test Mobil-1 5w-30 with Pro Long? or tests with Slick 50 added? We found Pro Long to work awesome as we tested it on a lathe with a steel bar and Vise Grip while spinning the bar. It freed it right up. Motor Up was almost as good. Used it before in my 440 Mopar for 1/4 drag racing, however adding more than the bottle didn’t do any further reduction in times so one doesn’t need to add over 12 oz to oil?
I took out 2 cam shafts last year on my 440 motor after never ever having done that before in 25 years of racing. I think I was using Wallart regular oil for break in (10w-30) and the second cam that went out I think I was using Rotella T. One was hydrauilic and one was a solid. I then found your tests after having to rebuild the motor 2x in a row! Needless to say I became good at pulling it from the car and stripping it down quickly. I was too late both times as the mains and rod bearings were shot-very quickly I add.
Since I have hi-volume oil pump, I am only using 1. Mobil 1 5w-30; 2. Valvoline 5w-30 hi mileage syn; 3. QS syn 5w-30. In my race car and all my vehicles. All have outstanding PSI. I am thinking 0w-40 Mobile 1 is too thick for the 440 motor and will cost HP. I have been to 3 Walmarts lately and all the Valvoline 5w-30 hi mileage full syn oils are gone!! The truth is out, at least here in Northern California
I think in many parts of country the Walmart oil is made by Mag 1?
Thanks again. What a blessing you are to give actual oil test data w/o the companies hype.
.
.
=============================
.
.
Hi 440guy, it’s good to hear from you.
Thanks for the compliment, I appreciate that.
All test data I have is posted in my Blog.
And thanks for sharing your experience.
Take care,
540 RAT
Hi 540 Rat,
I have a 99 K2500 Suburban with 125k miles and the 454 motor. Concerning oil burn off between 5k miles oil changes; Switching from QS Full Synthetic 5W-30 to Mobil 1 5W-30 I have noticed more oil burn off at the 3k mark with the Mobil 1. My next oil change will be with Valvoline Max Life Full Synthetic 5W-30 Hi-Mileage. Do you think this is a good switch to reduce oil burn off between changes? Since the Valvoline Syn Hi mileage ranked so high in your latest testing, I am excited to see it perform. I guess I am a “wanna be” oil geek at heart if I get excited about oil!
Thanks again
Jeff
.
.
=================================
.
.
Hi Jeff,
Using a High Mileage motor oil would certainly be a better choice for reducing oil consumption with an older engine. But, using synthetic oils can result in the most oil consumption, using synthetic-blend oils can result in less oil consumption, and using conventional oils often results in the least oil consumption. Those are the typical trends seen with older engines. But, the only way to know for sure what the results will be with any particular engine, is to try it and see.
So, you could start out with the 5W30 Valvoline Full Synthetic High Mileage with MaxLife Technology, API SN, GM dexos 1 approved (silver bottle), and see how it works out regarding oil consumption in your particular engine, and go from there.
Take care,
540 RAT