540 RAT responds to Questions/Comments from Readers of this Blog.
After having read your entire blog (even “between the lines”), it was time to drop a view on those who oppose to your facts that your blog contains. Maybe 3 or 4 of them, at least.
None of them includes scientific data or clues. They just “put” some marketing techniques, very well known to all doing marketing for living, in their texts and that’s very docile (dangerous too???) to low and mid-educated people. Apart from this, they know very well how to use english language (me…not!-remember I’m Greek) in order to support their fake and unstable “facts”.
What do they have all these blogs in common? They do NOT contain scientific proofs of what they support.
Of course, as I said, I do not use well english language, but I do understand clearly what I read or hear and, lastly, I can clearly discern as a Ph.D. Scientist (Civil Engineer-although not Mechanical Eng.) the borders between marketing “tricks” and scientific “talks”.
No doubt, they are top scientists in marketing…
I would the same as you do: ignore them. It’s a waste of time and nothing more. I wrote all these, just to protect the daily drivers from bad, or sometimes dangerous for their cars, “infos”.
Thanks for your patience…
I have my amsoil ready to send. My dad had your address but not the instructions . He wasn’t sure on the fee that goes in the package. Can you repost it?
Thank you for the oportunity, looking forward to the test results!
The shipping instructions were posted for a couple of days, and then they were removed.
Thanks for your interest,
Oil is on its way.
Got it, thanks.
Hello and thanks for the great site. Question for you, are you planning on testing this new Valvoline “modern engine” oil that is going around the US? thanks
5W20 is the middle viscosity they offer in that oil, and it is probably the most commonly used vicosity in today’s cars. So, if someone sends me a new unopened quart of the 5W20, I could test it, and find out how well it provides Wear Protection.
Thanks Rat for your work.
Can you tell me about using seafoam, marvels mystery oil, or other “cleaners” through your engine for the last 100 miles or so before an oil change. Does this just contaminate or is there real benefit?
Do NOT use any products like that. They are considered to be snake oil, and are designed only to separate you from your money. On top of that, they have been known to damage engines.
All you need to do, is to select and use, a high quality motor oil, and change it at reasonable intervals. That will keep your engine clean and well lubricated. High quality oils do not need any help.
Your MOET Data is quite interesting and has caused me to think about some changes. I’ve been driving and tracking air cooled Porsche 911’s since 84 with over 550,000 miles between two cars. One interesting observation regarding oil is this…
In the 80’s the 12k mile valve adjustment interval was a must, it was getting noisy. But as the oil kept improving the interval (noise based) kept getting longer to the point that now after 50K or more I’ll have more tight valves than loose… So the valve and seat wear rate is more or nearly equal to the rocker/cam wear surfaces.
In case you’re not familiar with these engines they are air/oil cooled, dry sump and include oil spray jets for the back side of the pistons and the valve train. A few years back the factory recommended a restrictor for the valve train oil supply I would guess due to the new thinner oils… Then they came out with their own oil and recommendations for these cars.
So 10w60 is their recommendation for my engines. I’ve used 20-50 Valvoline semi-synthetic products over the years. But I’d like to know how that oil compares to the Porsche oil, could you test it please.
I’m also interested in the results you found for the AeroShell 15w50 getting better with increased heat… but also wonder about the TBN = 2.6.
When it comes to heat I’ve got it and found that max horsepower occurs at a cylinder head temp of around 400 deg. F.
I‘ve built and implemented (9 years ago) the open internet project known as Megasquirt. I use MS2 engine management system with a vintage ITB MFI throttle bodies, wideband O2, knock sensing, twin plug, etc. and that’s been a blast, full control and all the data, you’d love it. I may add EGT to it down the road, it will accommodate.
Thanks for the MOETD!
Best Regards Scott
Hi Scott, thanks for all the info.
Testing the Valvoline oil all by itself, wouldn’t mean that much, since you would also need the the same type of test data on the Porsche oil, for an actual comparison.
If people want to see additional oils added to my Wear Protection Ranking List, they need to purchase those oils and send them to me for testing.
The Aeroshell 15W50 is formulated as a “low sulfated ash”, air cooled aircraft engine oil, which shows up as low TBN.
It is the only motor oil I have tested, that actually got better at the much higher test temperature. That is how it performed, so that’s what I posted.
540 Rat Please post the address again !
Any chance I can get you to email it to me?
I don’t email from this Blog. I only communicate with my Blog readers right here on this Q&A Section.
I posted the shipping instructions for you already, for a couple of days. And you couldn’t even bother to copy/paste them where you could hang on to them??? Really???
I’ll post them one more time, for one day. If you don’t make use of that, then you are out of luck.
Shipping Instructions: were posted for one more day, then removed.
Thanks so much for this info, enjoy reading this i am a engineering technician and the oil topic is almost out of control on the internet. Your blog was a great help when trying to find the best oil for my bmw 335i, 2007. i needed High Mileage oil include “Seal Swell”. I went for number 7. 5W30 Valvoline Full Synthetic High Mileage with MaxLife Technology.
However i found some somewhat contradiction material and i wanted to see if you can help. You talk about “OIL TEST DATA AND SEVERE OVER-HEATING EXPERIENCE ARE IDENTICAL Guess what? Now that you have tested that oil, it ranked near the very top of the Ranking List. It is 5W30 Valvoline MaxLife High Mileage (red bottle).”
But the red bottle 5w30 is number 15 on the list.
7. 5W30 Valvoline Full Synthetic High Mileage with MaxLife Technology, API SN, GM dexos 1 approved (silver bottle) = 123,470 psi
Valvoline had a chart on their Website showing that this is their best oil for fuel economy and Horsepower. They also said this oil provided more anti-wear film strength than 5W30 Mobil 1, which is what I also found in my testing.
High Mileage oils are formulated for older engines with over 75,000 miles on them. And High Mileage oils include “Seal Swell” chemicals to help reduce oil leakage in those older engines.
is near the very top, so i just want to make sure number 7 silver bottle is the one you meant to talk about on your “Oil test data”?
I have no idea how you confused yourself to the point that you believe there is a contradiction. Oil 7 and oil 15 are TWO COMPLETELY DIFFERENT oils, that are BOTH NEAR THE VERY TOP of my Ranking List, out of well over 200 different oils. Where exactly is the contradiction? You are the only one to ever say that, out of nearly a half a million Blog readers.
It was my Blog reader who shared his severe over-heating experience. Those were his words, not mine. And his feedback was posted before oil 7 was ever available.
Thank you for clearing that up! Keep up the good work man! 🙂
Hey thank you very much for your research and data. I have a Hemi 5.7 and I have found that the 2011 models have issues with lifters in cylinder 5 causing cam failures. The truck has 120,000 miles and I have been using Mobil 1 5W30 in the summer and Valvoline 5w20 full syn max in the winter.
I hope I can pro long the life of this engine and decided to use The Valvoline all year-any suggestions would help
I have always said that since 5W20 is so thin, that I do not recommend using it unless your engine was specifically designed for 5W20 in the first place. If your Owner’s Manual does not call for 5W20, I would not use it, because it can reduce oil pressure to perhaps an unacceptable level. When it comes to using thinner viscosity motor oils, newer vehicles usually have it correct already in their Owner’s Manuals, except for BMW’s that may still call for stupid thick 10W60 in some models, which is dead wrong for engines with small bearing clearances like theirs. They only did that as a Band-Aid to help their poor performing variable cam timing system.
The recommendation of using thinner oils than are currently being used, is generally aimed at the Hotrod and Racing world where the engines are modified and are no longer stock, where far too many people use stupid thick oil, thinking it provides better wear protection. But, that line of thinking is COMPLETELY WRONG, as anyone can see in my Wear Protection Ranking List. My Engineering test on motor oil wear protection capability, is the Gold Standard as to how oils truly perform. And it provides absolute proof that viscosity has nothing to do with an oil’s wear protection capability.
In Summary: For most later model stock vehicles, you are good with following the Owner’s Manual for the motor oil viscosity to use, which will almost always be 5W20 or 5W30 for gasoline engines, depending on how the engine was designed by the factory. And unless your vehicle is being operated part of the year in brutal extreme cold, or brutal extreme heat, you can safely use the same viscosity all year long, as indicated in the Owner’s Manual.
Hello Rat, Great information. I’d like to send you a quart of Lubrication Engineers 10W30 Diesel oil and a quart of LE 5W30 gasoline engine oil. After reading your test results showing that in general Diesel oils have a worse wear rating that gasoline oils I’m curious to see if LE’s products fit the same pattern.
I understand I need to send $10 for some sort of lab handling fee. If I send both quarts in one package do I need to send $20 or just $10? I have your address from another post so no need to post it again. Thank you.
That $10.00 cash is not for some sort of lab handling fee. It is for the shipping company’s “receiving fee” that they charge when they receive a package for me. You may send both quarts in the same package for that $10.00. That receiving fee is “per package”, not per quart. But, the limit is 2 quarts per package.
After adding your oil shipment to others, I will be maxxed out for accepting oils for testing, for the time being. So, after your oil, I will not be able to accept any more oil for awhile. I fit the testing into my extremely busy schedule, here and there, as I can. I test oils in the order I receive them, and with so many already on hand, and on the way, the later they arrive, the longer it will take for them to be tested, and for their results to be posted on my Blog. At this point, it could easily be a month or even two, before I clear up all the oils I’ve committed to testing. So, when people send me oil for testing, it is important that they are not in a big hurry. Therefore, they need to be patient. I will never drop the ball on testing oil and posting the results. But, the time involved may vary greatly.
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